Briancon - 24. Mai-01. Juni

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

It is 4 years since kajakers from SC Novartis went to paddle for the last time to southern France. I remember that as a wonderful week and I have always known I'll return once again there. I was always dreaming about the moments before and after the narrow gorch on Guil river nearby castle Chateau Queras, how steep was the stretch on river Claree in Nevache and how I was caught into rope on Guisanne when friends wanted to rescue me and my boat. I was very pleased it reappeared on the club schedule this year.

We met together with Irene, Marco, Eduard and Daniel in camp in "les Alberts" on Saturday about 11pm, when very kind French Gendarmerie brought me to the camp by their car from Col du Lautaret (I had to hitch-hike from Grenoble to Briancon, as the Buses and trains were already gone). The camping place in Nevache seemed to be closed, either as it was too early (end of May) or as it did not make enough money. Nevertheless, the camping in les Alberts was nice, we pitched our tenths by a small lake with wild ducks, and enjoyed cold and windy night.

On Sunday we decided to go on Claree. But the river had a lot of water this year (most of the snow on surrounding mountains was melted already) so no-one wanted to start on the WW3-4 stretch from Nevache -- except me. When Marco proposed he would like to take pictures before going by bike to mountains, it was clear to me I have to go. At least I had a reason. ;) 4 years ago there were many stones in the river, it was quite fast but there were also some pools where one could occasionally stop. Especially I remember one pool in front of the foot bridge. This time the stones were just overflowed by lots of water so I just had to keep my Necky Jive 8.10 straight down and paddle.

 

 

 Martin(me) on Claree. ;)

I stopped only twice as it was safer to go downstream then to stop somewhere between those many stones and risk problems. By the road bridge above village Plampinet joined Irene, Daniel and Eduard. We were very quickly surprised of the high waves and some huge stones on the next few hundred meters, as we had with Daniel in our memories stored that this stretch was fairly easy and good for beginners(but 4 years ago it was 3rd week in July and not the last week in May)! So it had to happen tha in front of one (the only one) huge stone/rock I wanted Eduard to stop and wait, but his long T-Canyon was too hard to turn against the current ... so he flipped and swam the difficult part above Plampinet, actually some hundred meters. After he got out of the boat on the shore, he decided to breath freely and continue by car. So we had 25% loss during the first day!

On Monday we went on Guisanne. We found out that possibly we started 4 years ago from Le Monetier les-Bains and beginners stepped out of the boats in Chantemerle and then the more experienced paddlers went down to Briancon through the forest valley. We started from Le Monetier les-Bains, the stretch was mostly WWI-I+, but at the very beginning of les Guibertes it was nice WWIII. Irene finished in Chantemerle and Daniel with me went down to Briancon. Again, we tried to dig out of our memories how was the river like 4 years ago ... after 200m there was a betone bridge(still in Chantemerle village) ... and I knew then, I should have stopped in front of the bridge and have a look. Some bridge, in the left half are hanging some unreadable and illegible tables but don't look like "DANGER" or similar ... let’s go further ... The current is really fast ... Daniel gets out of the boat and runs uphill, but definitely too late for me ... I should jump out too, now it's too late ... hmm, is this drop better right or left? ... left ... oh, a lot of stones ... bum, bum ... well, I did it, good! After I stopped behind the drop and saw it from the bottom, I knew we were here (4 years ago and that I almost flipped here over some stone, we traversed from right to the middle(as seen from the kajak)).

 

Fig. 1: Quite dangerous drop in Chantemerle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 2: Daniel going through the stones.

 

 

 

Then about 200m after the betone bridge comes very steep part, some stones, some waves, maybe up to WWIII because of the slope, we got a bit nervous. I remembered there was a water dam and that we carried boats on the right shore. Fortunately, the power-station was marked very well.

 

 

Fig. 3: Markings in front of the dam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 4: The dam. Impossible to boat as there are many protruding stones.

 

To make it short, our memories were quite good so we recognized the next place in time: the first rapid where I swam 4 years ago.

 

 

 

Fig. 5: First rapid. The place has been rearranged dramatically during 4 years. We passed without problems through the middle, where it was easy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 6: First rapid, the lower part. The place has been rearranged dramatically during 4 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then, somewhere down after the first rapid I went through very deep wave and felt it might loop me. It didn't and I tried to warn Daniel, but he hasn't seen me... and yes, he did very nice "candle". We stopped to have a rest and Daniel told me: The only thing I was thinking about was that under no circumstances I should swim. While standing on the shore we had a look what's behind the next curve. I thought nothing, but I should rather look while sitting in the boat more ahead and not backwards on Daniel.

 

 

 

Fig. 7: Second rapid: I rolled few meters in front the branch and the drop itself.

 

 

And we were still not done with Guisanne! ... there used to be a big stone or rock in the water on the right hand side, where some rafters bypassed us and I think there was an iron rod or something similar in the water, the valley was quite closed and dark....

 

 

Fig. 8: Third rapid. 4 years ago Bernd told me after we passed here: "That's all, no more difficulties any-longer from here". And Lada told me then: "Don't believe him, there is still one stretch, it is long but it is easier, and then you can go the slalom trail in Briancon".

 

              Fig. 8: Third rapid. Detail of the last 2 stones.

 

 

 

 

The fourth rapid was rather easy, as most of the stones were overflown with water. However, it was a good slalom through, we had an overview of the river and it must have been somehow steep as we didn't stop there. Then the last part coming down to Briancon from the forest was very steep and fast WWII, but not stones. We stepped out of the boats at the very beginning of the slalom trail right after the road bridge.

It wasn't enough, so we went with Daniel to have a look on Durrance in front of Briancon. Definitely WW5-6 with this water level. but we were told TOPOlino kajakers meet here yearly in Aug/Sept? to give them some kick. We spent nice evening cooking and eating local speciality: spread chestnuts.

On Tuesday Eduard joined us on Durrance from sport-centre in St. Niclaus to Embrun(WW2-2+). As the river had a lot of water, it was fairly easy but the wave in Embrun was nice. On the way back we went to have a look on Embrun city on some rocky ridge and then on river Guil. The middle Guil downstream power-station was described in DKV guide as very dangerous because of unexpected floods, and it really was: see the very steep and narrow valley. The Angel gorch had enough water and we concluded we could make it except one place(WW5) by the tunnel. The wild camp was ruined by high water, possibly this year. We continued by car to Chateau Querras and recognized the well known WW6 place place at the end of the rocky valley by the road.

The gorch along Chateau Querras had too much water and seemed to be more than WW3+ as it was 4 years ago. We investigated the most upper part of Guil and found the cascade several hundred meters upstream Augilles to be quite ugly and risky. We decided to wait with final decision for Bernd, possibly going from Augilles to Chateau Querras.

On the retour to Briancon we went through Col d'Izoard, a very scenic pass with rocks and deserts. We wondered where to go next day, but we knew Bernd should arrive and therefore decided to wait. In the evening Sabine and Ralf arrived, and in the morning Maloue and Bernd.

On Wednesday we went on Guisanne from Le Casset to Chantemerle, because the water level was almost same as on Monday and no-one wanted to have fun in the forest valley. :)

 

 

Fig. 27: But we had enough fun anyway, see Daniel. 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 28: Bernd.

 

 

 

On Thursday Beno with Holger joined our team and we went on the river called Onde. Again, our leaky memories claimed that 4 years ago Silke(a friend of Steffen) went on this river as a true beginner with us, so it must have been an easy one river! Sabine started from the footbridge and the cracks went 300m upstream to warm up. We started right after a very dangerous place. Unfortunately, my boat slipped of the rock while I was trying to adjust myself in the boat ... so I had to make first curve with the spray-skirt opened. That frightened others as no-one knew what happened to me ... honestly said, Onde was the best trip of the week(technical but mostly safe). Beno swam just in the next curve(he flipped under the undercut shore in between the roots. The remaining 180m were like forever - stones, waves, pools, really technical.

 

 

Fig. 32: Another tricky place on the Onde, about 100m upstream the footbridge

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 33: Papparazi's hunting for pictures of us on the most difficult drop of the day - 50m just after the fottbridge. Ralf is wondering where to get through.

 

The remaining stretch was good WW3, so we could say Beno, Ralf, Sabine, Holger did very well!

 

 

Fig. 34: Beno

 

Fig. 35: Ralf

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 36: Sabine

 

 

 

 

We stopped in front of the road bridge going to village ***. Holger has lost his boat there but fortunately they caught it in front of the dam. So we know for the next time that there's enough time if someone swims the last part. ;)

On Friday we tried for us new river from Bardonecchia(Italy) down to village ***. The rivers had grey water because of the dust coming from the rocks and was unexpectedly polluted with waste. In general it was WW2-3 but with some trees in the river and very dangerous dam, where we had to carry boats around. But the picknick was a pleasure!

Saturday we spent on Ubaye, nice stretch WW3-WW2- from the tunnel to La Condamine-Chatelard. Unfortunately, Daniel didn't make an eskimo roll as there was more stones then water in the river and swam at least 200m(of the most interresting part - WWII+-III). Luckily without injuries he got out but did not continue anymore by boat. I believe next time he will make that first part by boat, as he swam through the most interesting part of the day! :) Saturday was the last day for us, so here we are all together. Thanks to everyone who joined the team!